Thursday, March 29, 2018

Baby Gray Whale VIDEOS

Hi again...here are the videos I promised in my last post. Enjoy!

Note: if you've received this post via email and are having problems with the video links, try opening the page in your web browser by clicking here:
 http://svshannon.blogspot.com/2018/03/baby-gray-whale-videos_29.html 


It was fun watching the group in the other panga interacting with the baby whale...





Watch how momma tells her baby when it's time to leave...





Sharing time socializing between our two boats...





A first person perspective of what it's like when a baby whale comes to be petted...


Tuesday, March 27, 2018

Playing with Baby Whales

Last week, CJ and I took a long-awaited side trip over to the western side of the Baja, to visit a very special place.  Adolfo Lopez Mateos is a village located near the northern end of the 50 km long Bahia Magdalena, a 10 minute panga trip to one of the "doorways" out into the Pacific. During the months of January to March, this large lagoon acts as a nursery for the Gray Whales of the North Pacific. 

Magdalena Bay is one of three such lagoons located along the outside of the Baja and we remember passing them by as we sailed south in 2011 on our way to Mexico.  Each winter these incredible animals make the journey south from their summer feeding grounds in the Arctic and return to their place of birth to mate and raise babies of their own.

To find out more about the history of the Baja whale lagoons, the whales who use them and the people who live there, check out this great article by James Michael Dorsey: The Whale Keepers of San Ignacio, Mexico

Lopez Mateos is about a 4 hour drive from La Paz and many folks do the entire tour in a single day.  We had heard that early morning is the best time to view the whales, so we made plans to stay overnight in the village.  We hired a wonderful taxi driver / tour guide named Jorge, who we had met last year here in La Paz. Jorge and his family have run their taxi/tour business for two generations and Jorge is a genuinely nice guy with a ready smile and a pretty good handle of English.  He has a fleet of pristine recent model vans and is an excellent driver, so even CJ was comfortable riding in the passenger seat on a Mexico highway. :-)

Jorge picked us up outside Palmira Marina at 8 am and we arrived at Lopez Mateos shortly after noon.  After checking in to our Cabanas and having a lunch of fish tacos at the palapa restaurant next door, we made our way down to the Embarcadero to hire a panga for a two hour tour out in the lagoon.  Although the winds of recent days had eased, it was a bit choppy and many of the whales had left the lagoon to spend the afternoon out in deeper water.  We did, however, see a few whales actively swimming and even a baby practicing its breaching skills.

Jorge & CJ on the Embarcadero
Jorge negotiated a great deal for us and we had a panga to ourselves.
That night, we had an early dinner of seafood (lobster, prawns and a delicious fish fillet!), provided by a local woman who runs a small restaurant and rents rooms.  Her little granddaughters were gracious hostesses, greeting us with smiles and handshakes when we arrived.  The youngest (14 months), amazed us with her social skills when she walked up to our table after dinner to show us her stash of play money...  tiny little colourful Mexican Peso bills in various denominations.  Jorge joked and teased her, saying: "vamos a la tienda!".

The next morning, we were up before 6 to have breakfast and make our way back down to the Embarcadero to hire another panga.  This time we were able to join another group of early birds and save a few pesos by sharing a panga.

The water was calm and the sun was burning off the morning fog as we made our way over to the "doorway".  We came across another panga with a small group,  engine stopped and drifting along with a baby whale alongside.  The two Japanese women in this panga leaned over the side and squealed with delight as the whale came right alongside their boat, close enough for them to pat.

(photo courtesy of Jorge)

Our captains (the) pangeros were very careful to shut off their engines when the whales were near and let the whales approach us by their own choosing. Soon, the "little" whale left the other panga and headed our way.  It was amazing to see how comfortable he/she was with us and seemed excited to meet as many humans as she could.  We were surprised at how soft the whale's skin was.  I've heard someone describe it as feeling like the texture of a peeled hard-boiled egg (except for those crusty barnacle, of course).





(photo courtesy of Jorge)



Time for a little break

Even the babies have barnacle growth, giving them their distinctive gray colour.


The whales love to have their mouths & baleens scratched
Momma controls the show
I have a few short videos of the whales and their new human friends, which I'll share in my next post.  In the meantime, here are a few photos of some of the other sights we had that day....

Magdalena Bay is also home to a large variety of birds. Our guides took us near the shore for a closer look...
White Pelicans on the shore

Great Blue Heron in full plumage
Meanwhile, back at the Embarcadero...

Close to the end of the whale season here, so we had our choice of pangas.
Cleaning boat bottoms, Baja style. Muriatic acid, no gloves or face masks!

Hope you enjoyed the photos!


(photo courtesy of Jorge)

Sunday, March 25, 2018

Basking in La Paz....

You could be forgiven for thinking we've dropped off the edge of the world. Hopefully you will be relieved to learn we have not. We've just been busy; busy enjoying lazy days in La Paz... in the company of old and new friends, at Marina Palmira, Dock 3.

It's funny really... how quickly we assume addresses at every port. We (Kathy and I) are members of the Dock 3 'family' at Marina Palmira, the Dock 4 family at Marina Mazatlan, the B Dock family at Marina El Cid, and the C Dock family in Marina San Carlos. Each of these 'families' consist of those cruisers who commonly frequent each location at approximately the same time. It's quite a fluid arrangement and the group dynamics change each time one boat arrives or another leaves. But it's wonderful to look forward to reconnecting with old friends and to welcome new members to the family as they arrive. We will miss (and I think we will be missed by) those family members we will be saying adios to when we ship home... and that's quite a sad reality. Until now, each time we've said goodbye it really means... see you next season.

Not so this year. We have six weeks left to enjoy sailing in the Sea of Cortez before we hand SSpirit's key to a good friend who will deliver her to her 'ride' home. We will precede her and fly out on May 19th. SSpirit will wait patiently for her new life as a B.C. coastal cruiser to begin. She is supposed to be picked up by the freighter sometime between May 25 and June 25. We're told the date will become more apparent once the freighter is through the Panama Canal.

For now we are in La Paz, waiting for some bigger winds to blow through (what else?) and then we will head up into the Loreto area for our last few weeks of gunk-holing in the Sea of Cortez.

I'll write again when there's news to tell... Hope all is well with each of you...and those spring flowers are popping up everywhere for you to enjoy.

Adios for now amigos y amigas... CJ

Posted by: Carolyn (via Kathy's Google mail profile)

Sunday, March 11, 2018

Last crossing...

For the record: this is the last time we will be crossing the beautiful Sea of Cortez :-(. And, oh what a first night we've had. Ha! I just saw two sea turtles swimming in line off our Port side.

It's 0630 and I've just taken over the watch after a 2 1/2 hr. break. We have the Lee cloth set up on the couch (to keep whoever is trying to sleep from falling off if and when the boat rolls quickly). Such is the available sleep on a small boat when two people are taking turns on the helm... using a 2-3 hr. watch system. Mostly you lie there with your eyes closed, trying to ignore the constant thrum of the Diesel engine (when you're motoring), the explosions of noise on the VHF radio (particularly when the Mexican fishermen get to bantering),the creaking and groaning of the boat as her hull flexes, and the noises in your head as you run through the lists of things you did remember to check before leaving... and the lists of things you should probably check to make sure everything is working as it should. At some point, within the two hour period you actually fall asleep; and then it's time to get up, put your gear back on, and head out to take over the helm. Lots of fun :-)

Back to the crossing. I wrote you we finally had a window. SSpirit, and about 8 other boats, left Mazatlan bound for La Paz. Even though we all left within a few hours of each other, and were all heading for the same place, we haven't sighted a boat since yesterday afternoon. Everyone is out here but they're all below the horizon. As usual, we're one of the slower boats. We observe several 'house rules' when transiting. It's a safety thing. The first is, having experienced the ruthlessness of northerly winds when they kick up (and expecting them to arrive as forecast) we put one reef in the main sail. The second rule is... we put the second reef into the main just before dark. The other rules have to do with both crew being tethered in at all times after dark and no one leaves the cockpit unless the other person is watching.

OK, back to the trip. Yesterday, the first day of our trip, went very well. The winds and seas were (as expected) on the nose... but didn't get as high as had been forecast. We left expecting to see 20 knot winds by 1600 hrs; but they never arrived. Yahoo to that. That made our journey much more comfortable and fun.

A couple memories I'd like to share with you... During the day we saw lots of birds and quite a few turtles. Then, as sunset approached, we were treated to the most beautiful, brilliant, almost neon, blazing pink skies. For one gorgeous 20 minute period, one particular cloud formation was so brilliant it turned a swath of the the sea below it to deep pink with its reflection. Never seen that before. It was amazing. The glow continued for some time and we motor-sailed on, cloaked in Mother Nature's colours.

Over-night provided some excitement as well. There I was minding my own business and tending the helm when I happened to notice the depth sounder flashing. Now, this new and dependable instrument had been showing - - - like it does when it's really deep, for hours... and all of a sudden it was flashing 45.1. Yikes! I watched and pondered this situation for about 10 minutes... wondering what the heck was going on. We were in an area the charts declared to be over 1200 feet deep. I was watching it carefully because, if it got to 30, I was going to slow down and call upon the navigator (who was off watch and sleeping) for a second opinion. Best I can figure is a very smart whale was swimming along with us, at our speed, about 45 feet below us... or... we went over an unmarked sea mount (there are many in the Sea of Cortez).

The next major event that captured my attention also kind of scared me a bit. Visions of having to abandon ship in a hurry, in the dark, with our abandon ship gear spread around somewhat (a situation that was remedied as soon as I recovered from the 'event') flashed through my mind.

When I stand my watch I have the habit of, besides watching the instruments (radar, chart plotter, autopilot, engine dials) constantly. I also make it a point to stand up (the usual position for the person on watch is standing or sitting behind the wheel) and 'walk the deck' (all four feet of it when I walk from one side to the other of the that little space) every ten minutes or so. When I'm doing that, I do a complete scan of the horizon and all the space between it and our boat. I'm looking for the lights of ships I know are there and the lights of ships I don't know about. On a night like last night the stars are so brilliant the ones near the horizon actually look like they could be ships... and vice versa; a ship near the horizon could look like a star.

So, there I was last night, about to begin my walk, and looking to port, I saw a huge patch of phosphorescent light developing in the water about 100 yards off. As I watched, and before my shocked eyes, I saw the ball of light (about the size of a Greyhound Bus) was moving and moving fast, much faster than us... and it was on a collision course with us, heading toward our bow on a diagonal course. I really couldn't do anything as I watched for the few seconds this all took.

I'm assuming it wasn't 'our time' yet; the light disappeared as it went below our bow. I must also assume, as I'm pretty sure Greyhound Buses can't swim, that one very large (and fast) whale was deep enough, or dove, and missed us. He missed us and we missed him. Thank goodness. But, I have to say... phew, that was a close one.

And so my friends, as a new day develops with smooth seas, light winds, and us chugging along towards La Paz, I've started this blog so I can share our last crossing with you. I'll finish it tomorrow so you can have the whole story in order and in one shot.

For now, know we are safe and enjoying our crossing of this beautiful body of water. The Sea of Cortez has provided us with a lifetime of experiences and stories over the seven plus years we've been wintering here.

Ha! Dolphins fishing off our Port side.... must go and watch. Adios till I write again.. CJ

Friday, March 9th.

1828 hrs. I cannot describe well enough for you the vision created by a blazing sunset to one side of us and the pale pastel blues and pinks on the other. Mother Nature's tablet is surreal. I could be floating in a vase of pinks and blues. I can't even see the horizon for the shades of colours that blend the sea and the sky. This is the kind of experience that woos us sailors away from our homes and keeps us coming back. And as the day slips quietly into the night... I am trying to imprint this moment into my memory... forever.

It's later now, quite a bit later. It's dark and there are clouds of mist scattered across the barely visible horizons. We are motor sailing (yes, the mainsail has been up the whole time... it often catches and holds a bit of wind). We have made it to the other side of the wide expanse of the Sea and are heading up along the east side of Ceralvo Island.

Do you remember I told you about being scanned by a drone when we were crossing Banderas Bay in the early hours, after coming north around Cabo Corrientes? Well, I'm experienced now and it didn't take long for me to identify a mysterious object with flashing lights hovering fairly high over our port side. It moved with us for a little while and then scooted back towards land. Hmmm... Cartel or authorities... a 'coin toss' for sure. I worried about that a bit; then decided while the authorities wouldn't worry about being spotted (bright flashing strobe lights) the Cartel would probably 'run dark'. Anyway, I spotted the small little spy ships several times. They must have had a slow night to spend so much time watching us. I really can't get used to these things. Their presence and purpose feels very invasive. But, if I was to take one out with my little flare gun, I expect I wouldn't get to enjoy the rest of our season... sigh. Oh well, on we chugged.

Pre-dawn on Saturday morning found us crossing the top of Ceralvo Island and approaching Lorenzo Channel. Tuamotu, a sailboat ahead of us, and ourselves had to scoot out of the way for two, very large ferries, converging on the same Channel. We continued on our way once they had passed. An easy route south to La Paz, on a beautiful sunny morning.... and by 0900 hrs., we were tied snuggly to our new slip in Marina Palmira. 51.5 hours... not bad at all.

We are delighted to have arrived, finally, in La Paz. Friends Sue and John are still here. They leave Wednesday, aboard a beautiful, sea-going trawler called MV Shorleave, as crew for a four month journey into the South Pacific. We are so glad we arrived in time to bid them safe journeys and help them slip their lines.

We will catch up on our rest and get on with our plans; meeting old and new friends, having new canvas created for SSpirit, and preparing for some cruising in our favourite cruising grounds - north of La Paz. If you think about the location of Loreto... that's the area we'll spend most of our time.

For now... know we are safe and secure and wishing you all your own safe journeys.

Adios until next time. CJ


Posted by: Carolyn (via Kathy's Google mail profile)

Thursday, March 8, 2018

News Flash... we’re on the move!

0500 hrs. Winds calm...tide lowish. Forecast: not too bad until late Saturday. It's Thursday. We have a window!

So, can't talk long... things to do. But know this; we are finally able to head to La Pas. yippee! Yahoo! Finally! Probably won't write again until we're there (not much internet at sea). But, approximately 236 nautical miles from here... I'll let you know once we're there.

Hope everyone's well. We're delighted to be on the move. Adios for now... farewell Mazatlan. We will miss the wonderful folks here... and our cruising friends who stay on the mainland side.

Until we write again. Be well.

CJ

Posted by: Carolyn (via Kathy's Google mail profile)