We're back !!!

It's December 2nd. We've been raking leaves and tidying the gardens and pathways. There are buds on the small trees, rhododendrons and shrubs. Acorns that catapulted to earth from our four Garry Oak trees (like a barrage of machine-gun fire)  are all sprouting (good for the Oaks, not so good for us). It looks and feels like early spring!  Anyone else getting chills down their spine when they read this?

Oh yeah, hi there. It's me... I'm back!  Yes, rum and eggnog in hand (or at least on my desk beside the key-board) I have decided it's high time I checked in with you all.. and brought us back together for some long over-due updates and howdy-do's.

When we disappeared... we had finally managed to import and bring home our wee little ship Shannon's Spirit.  Now, before you ask.. I'll tell you straight up.. we didn't get much boating in this summer. Turns out there's a big difference between sliding into town for a few months between spring and fall... and then sliding out again before the real work starts... and actually landing home with no intention of leaving.

Make no mistake, we are home and we are digging in to the domestical life...  house, grounds, vehicles, trailer, and of course SSpirit.. all demanding attention at the same time.  Thank goodness the fence we built last year is still standing.  And, thank you past owners, Marilyn & Tom, for creating such a wonderful home to come back to.  And so it goes: we're home, we're involved, and we're so happy to see friends and family (who are friends too) again.. and with time to actually have good visits. We're also finding ourselves having time to become more interested (and perhaps active) in community-based situations.  I actually did some research before voting in our municipal election this year... go figure.

As well, we remain in touch with our cruising family.  Several have contacted us asking about the decisions we made in bringing SSpirit home; like which type of transport, what company, what paper-work and rules and laws.. etc.  I now have one email I send and re-send and then offer to answer questions. It's interesting to note that quite a few of the folks who are like us in thoughts and spirit (no pun intended) are looking at their options just as we did; and several are deciding it's time to come home. That's all I'm going to say about that.  We all make our own decisions, based upon our priorities and our observations related to those priorities. For us, the end of the last season was the right time to pull up stakes and return; not to our previous life... because we have changed ... (like you would.. after sailing down the coast of North America and taking up a way of life for 7 months a year for the past 7 1/2 yrs. ,,,) but to a life where even though we had left our address, our friends, and our families, were welcomed back with open arms. You can't beat that and we're very happy to be home.

One of the things we did in order to accept our future in bringing SSpirit home... and returning to a much different, seasonal, climate.. was to realize we weren't forced to stay home ALL winter. Nope, Lucy was sitting there (if you don't already know, or may have forgotten... Lucy is our little Casita trailer).  Well she was sitting there in the driveway, all forlorn and such... and feeling pretty much left off the party list.  So, with very little effort, we were able to concoct a vision of taking Ricki (the truck, for the uninformed) and Lucy (the aforementioned trailer) on a small 8-9 week adventure SOUTH to the WARMTH of California, Nevada, Arizona, etc.  You get the picture.  And, we decided that mid-January to mid-March seemed like a good time to set forth on said adventure. As you know we have very much enjoyed our camping trips down and back to Yuma (where we'd leave Lucy and then drive into Mexico and to the boat) over the past many years.  We passed many places we'd like to see more of and visited many places where we'd like to stay longer. It seemed pretty clear there was more to be seen than we had explored.  And so (to quote a friend) "a plan was hatched".

Before I get into the 'plan' I should share a bit of our reality with you.  So far, it's all sounding rosy... and I wish for everyone life could always be without sorrow, sadness, and challenges.  But, that's not usually the case and we are no different.  Sadly this year we lost a beloved member of the family. She was a unique individual, stellar in so many ways. HawkOwl (her chosen name) had a life filled with her own kind of adventures and she excelled in so many ways few have a firm grasp on her as a whole. She was a child of the  '20's born in Victoria. She was Kathy's father's little sister. Moira (her given name) traveled and studied extensively. She became an actress and a dancer, studying and performing with the famous Japanese Noh theatre group.  She also earned her Doctorate degree and taught as a professor in the Theatre department at the University of B.C. for many years. Retiring from UBC, Dr. Mulholland became a Registered Clinical Counselor and soon thereafter took up residency on Gabriola Island.  After a few years, she reconnected with forgotten artistic talents, joined the growing group of Island artists and became a respected sculptor.  HawkOwl will be well remembered by those who knew her. She was a force to be reckoned with when it came to women's issues and the problems of the world at large. Her spirit poured out, through her hands and into her creations.  HO will surely be missed and I'm pretty sure her concerns for the planet and for humanity will live on, as will her teachings and nuggets of wisdom - passed on when deemed necessary.

And so, our life continues... We're home and we're adapting to life where winter looms menacingly on the horizon.  We did prepare for it (even if it hasn't come yet).  We are the proud owners of a gorgeous wood burning stove, carefully installed in our 'to be a' rec/dart room.  We have excavated a guest room and now a rec room (hereafter called "The Cabin" because it has almost everything one could need to ride out a longish power outage) out of the half-basement below our rancher. And, as of today, we have filled the woodshed with dry and split wood.  It was still half full when we moved in and it's now wholly filled (with room of course for the wood gatherer).

We are ready for winter.       So, how come there are blooms on the rhododendrons?  :-)

Here's trusting all is well in your world.

Adios for now... CJ


PS Stay tuned for more news of our pending "Winter Escape" (mid-Jan) 'n stuff like that.

SSpirit - a new country... a new life

​So much to tell you... so little time.  We've been dashing about, trying to prepare our home and gardens to be abandoned yet again; all those things you usually do over two months, we're trying to do in 5 days.  I'm happy to report the freighter MV AAL Singapore (the green freighter in the photo) is docking as I write in Nanaimo harbour.  She has a whole lot of sticks poking up off her deck.... one of them is SSpirit.  

It's been a long, complex, frustrating haul... but I can assure you we are very excited to be home and to have the boat arriving in Canada as well.  ​Even Customs has been good to us; clearing us without hesitation thanks, no doubt, to the professional services of our Boat Broker (Simon of King Brothers in Victoria).

We attend to the dock tomorrow and, after boarding the freighter in order to climb to SSpirit's deck and detach her back-stay, we will be shipped around to the 'wet' side to receive her as she is unloaded. All going well (and the engine starts) we'll then head to Nanaimo Yacht Club with fingers crossed they'll have room for us (reciprocal yacht club has it's good points) for a few days of cleaning, unwrapping, and preparing SSpirit for her  journey south to her new home.

Yes, we are excited.  Will share photos and tales with you later.  Hope all is well with each of you. Adios for now. CJ

Photo credits go to Brian & Leslie of SV Ubiquity, a beautiful 34' who will unload one boat ahead of us.

Busy times...

It's been a little busy around here... time for a catch up. As you know we were planning on shipping SSpirit home on a freighter in June; and we've been here in La Paz getting the boat ready for her trip so we could leave her in the care of friends and get ourselves home before the end of May. Well... didn't we get offered space for SSpirit on an earlier freighter... and didn't we say YES!! Getting the boat home in time for a decent summer of cruising in beautiful BC and having the opportunity to get on with our new life (living in one country), and getting to see our family and friends even sooner.... almost too good to be true. You bet we said yes! And so, we picked up the pace, which is why you haven't heard much from us. It's a busy time down here what with physical preparations, Mexican officialdom, and never-ending paperwork. But we're getting through it and will be ready on time. More good news is Kathy has had the opportunity to slip away for a few days on a wee expedition with a group of scientists. She's out there right now observing (and learning) some local scientists who are studying whale sharks, sharks and rays... awesome opportunity! She will tell you all about it later.

So bottom line... we'll be home on the 13th and SSpirit will be around (at least in Victoria) hopefully by the 19th. Pretty awesome, hey. Will write more once we're home and a bit better rested. Hope all is well with each of you. Adios for now. CJ

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Marina Palmira, Slip 335 ... 1630 hrs.

This is just a short note... to let those of you with vivid imaginations (sometimes egged on by my comments, I admit) know we are safely alongside slip 335 at Marina Palmira. This will be our last 'docking' here in Mexico and we're happy to report we came smoothly alongside without any hysterics whatsoever. Boaters know of what we speak. The rest of you just have to guess :-)

Yes, we have many stories to tell. We did indeed have a magnificent 'last spin' in the Sea of Cortez. We visited old favourites (people and anchorages) and met new ones (of both). We even took a few photos... so, stay tuned.

Will write about our last season when time allows. For now, we are trying to adjust to the massive heat (for us) that is La Paz at this time of year... get the boat ready for her journey north... and take care of other various things on our plates.

We hope all is well with each of you, and apologize for being out of touch for so long.... Coming from our neck of the woods it's hard to imagine how out of contact small villagers are. We have had no, or very little, news and contact via the internet or cell phone for the last several weeks.... and we're glad to be back!! Talk again soon.. CJ


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Southbound again

Hi folks,

Just a short note from our SSB radio email to say that we have pulled up our anchor and left beautiful Agua Verde this morning. We are motoring along in very smooth seas, heading for the village of San Evaristo tonight.

All is well aboard, except for our obstinate/flaky Pactor radio modem which, for some unexplainable reason, has finally decided to cooperate this morning, allowing us to download a bit of weather info and send this email.

Hope all is well with you.

Kathy & CJ.

Sleepless nights...

It's 0012 hrs (that's right, twelve minutes after midnight), Friday the 13th is over, and I'm cuddled up with my favourite fleece blanket in the cockpit. I'm here because we've been riding out a late-season Norther, along with at least twenty other boats, in the mooring bouy field of Puerto Escondido (PE). No worries re: safety; the mooring bouys are fairly new and, apparently, checked every month and I'm all kitted out (ships rules) with my PFD and tether on... flashlight's in one pocket and sailors knife is in the other.

Previously we had been enjoying the beauty of anchorages in and around Isla Carmen. We had been in PE doing laundry and getting some groceries and, as always, watching the weather forecasts. We knew there was a blow coming but had a couple days before it was due so had gone back out to Bahia Marquer. As the predictions of big wind got larger and larger (one source predicted gusts as high as 50!) we realized we needed to head in sooner than planned in order to have the freedom to select a good mooring ball. Having done so, we settled in for the ride.

Preparation for that 'ride' was sort of like getting ready for a long crossing. We 'ship-shaped' the interior, making sure everything was in its place and nothing was left on tables or shelves that could fall off and break or get under foot. We made sure our fuel tank was topped up and we had enough water, and we got out equipment like pocket-sized flashlights, knives, the big spotlight, etc.

Overnight Thursday was calm and we slept well... until 0600 hrs. Friday morning when, as predicted, the winds arrived with a blast. And so they continued for most of the day. Most boats (and ours is no different) spend their time on a mooring bouy doing 'the dance'. It's not unlike the two-step... you know "slow, slow... quick quick" repeat. Each boat swings differently; the style determined by hull design, wind and wave direction, geographical and environmental factors, and Lady Luck. But dance they do, and Shannon's Spirit is no exception. As well as doing the mooring bouy two-step she also leans a bit, pushed over by the gusts; which can be disconcerting at times... but so far, so good. The main way we cope with all this complexity is doing as much prep as we can think of and then setting up anchor watches.

Any time there's a need for a serious 'anchor watch' Kathy and I take turns. One sits up and 'watches' while the other tries to get some sleep. Today/tonight is such a time. We selected our mooring bouy carefully when we arrived; picked one at the north end of the bay, situated in the lee of a large hill. We knew we'd still get the wind but we're close enough to the head of the bay we figured we'd get a lot less wave action due to the short fetch. After listening to some of the other, further away, boats today... we're pretty sure our 'figuring' has paid off. Don't get me wrong, we've still got plenty of wind... saw gusts in the low 30's today (and that's knots, not MPH or KMs).

Zzzzz hi, I'm back. Tried to sleep. Couldn't. The two of us sat up for a while as the gusts are getting higher (as predicted but no where near 50...yet). Kathy's trying to sleep now and I'm on watch. The time is 0300 hrs. And the gusts are... hang on, I ll go measure.

OK, just clocked one at 25.3 Knts. Seemed bigger but that's what the machine said. So, besides the fact it's dark, seas I can hardly see are rolling by, the boat is sailing on her tether, and the wind is going from 25+ gusts, dropping to almost nothing, and then filling in again with a howl as it hisses through the rigging... well, besides all that, we 're doing great! The stars are brilliant (there's no moon tonight) and it will be dawn in less than 3 hours.... at which time I may retire from, yet, another sleepless night.

G'night y'all. CJ


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Enjoying the Sea...

Hi all. Just a short note to let you know we are well. Unfortunately there is very little connectivity in Puerto Escondido and so very few phone calls or emails. We are outside the harbour now and heading to a nearby anchorage for a couple days. Then back into PE on Thursday as there's a norther coming with winds gusting up into the high 20's at least. It's expected to arrive Friday and blow for at least three days. We'll tuck into the Port again and find a mooring ball with protection from the seas at least. Guess it'll be time to do .laundry and tidy up the boat :-)

Hope all is well with all of you. Will check in again when we can. All is well.

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Puerto Ballandra

Saturday, April 7th.  And we're anchored in Puerto Ballandra (Isla Carmen).  Yes, we have arrived.  Our goal was to circumnavigate this Island and we're doing it!  

Kathy spent hours in her kayak today and took lots of great photos.  These are two; testament to how clear the water is and how colourful the wildlife.  First, a starfish like we've never seen before and... yup a red and blue crab....  (missin' our Dungeness :-( 

I spent some time in the dinghy trolling various lures back and forth around the rocky point just outside.  After only a few nibbles, and watching the fish in the see-through water, I switched to a good old, white, buzz bomb.  Must have hit the critter on the head when I tossed it in.  He was so shocked he grabbed it and, voila!, it's trigger fish for dinner tonight. 

We head to Puerto Escondido tomorrow... time to clean up and do laundry.  Then we'll be back out and back at it.  Hope all is well with each of you. Best always.  CJ

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North from La Paz... second of two

Hi all. It's been a few days, but know we are well and cruising in the Sea of Cortez :-)

One of the things we have to get used to when we're actually away from the dock and cruising, is the fact we don't have Internet. No chatting with friends or catching up with family and no checking in with those we know are wondering how we're doing.

It's Wednesday, April 4th, and we've had three lovely days at Bahia Agua Verde. This is one of the most colourfully beautiful anchorages in the Sea. The waters range from royal blue to emerald green and they appear as artwork to the eye. We first anchored in the bay just out from the village and sat through a couromuel with winds up to about 20 knots... but we had anchored well and as there was no fetch, all was fine. We then went over to an area known as the south lobe. From a distance this looked like there was only room for a couple boats, and it was full. But friends who were already anchored there encouraged us to come in, so we did. This place is paradise! We have been blessed with a great view out into the Sea at the same time as we are quite protected from most winds. We are anchored in 15-20 feet of water and we can see the bottom. Every so often a turtle swims by... and each afternoon the dolphins (hundreds of them) stampede by the mouth of the bay, apparently herding fish. Oh, and the water is warm. This has been the experience we were seeking when we left Victoria in August 2011 !!!

As you might expect there is lots to see and not a lot of time... so we plan to weigh anchor tomorrow and do two things. First, we will stop in a particular bay that has a resort in it. That means there is likely a chance to hook into internet and send and receive some emails (for the first time since leaving La Paz)...(hence my writing this catch up email). Then we will turn our nose towards Isla Carmen and likely head to Bahia Colorado for at least one night.

Not sure when we will next have Internet... but we will check into Puerto Escondido and find it there in about a week, or so.... Ahh, this life as a nomad isn't too bad :-)

Hope all is well with each of you.... will talk again soon. Adios for now. CJ

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North from La Paz...

Hello all. Saturday, March 31st., 0600, we slipped quietly away from La Paz. The time for our last tour of our favourite anchorages (and some new ones) in the Sea of Cortez has arrived. Internet connections for the next month will be weak and sketchy, if at all, so I am starting this Blog post now. I'll use it as a running commentary and post each time we can.

Saturday, March 31st. While there wasn't enough wind to actually sail and maintain sufficient speed to reach our destination before dark, there was enough to hoist the main which blessed us with a wee bit more speed from time to time. The rest of our forward motion was produced by our trusty Diesel engine... noisy but efficient. We ran, under power and sail, from La Paz, north along the two big islands immediately north (Islas Espiritu and Partida) peeking into each anchorage as we passed. Most seemed quite empty (surprising as this is Easter week and the weather is good)and as we listened to the morning nets on the SSB radio we learned that Isla San Francisco had been loaded with boats and very uncomfortable with a SW swell. Hmm, that had been our destination... so back to the planning stage, worked out a few options, and carried on.

The day went smoothly. SSpirit performed well and we really enjoying watching the beautiful, rugged coastline roll by. We remembered how amazed we had been the first time we saw this creation of natural beauty. The wonderment hasn't changed. We did see other boats but, in this part of the Sea they are usually few and far between. This side is very different than the mainland. For one thing the humidity is half (yeah!), the water is clear and beautiful colours, and the land formations are gorgeous creations of striated cliffs and impressive architecture (mesas to mountains).

Along our way we were joined by a Fin whale that surfaced and blew not very far behind us, two humpbacks travelling together that passed us south bound, numerous turtles swimming slowly in all directions, and leaping rays.

We passed by Isla San Francisco. Although there would have been room for us, we weren't all that impressed with the notion of rolly-poley all night, so we kept on. We had heard there were only three boats in San Evaristo so we headed over there and arrived at 1530 hrs. San Evaristo is a small fishing village and we've been here several times before. It's also the home of good friends Charlotte and Steve (SV Wilful Simplicity). They were home and it was great to see them and catch up.

Sunday, April 1st. interesting night. Winds blew 16+ for several hours from about 2300 - 0300. Luckily there was no fetch, as they blew from the west, but it's still somewhat unnerving to have the winds whistling like that as you watch to make sure your anchor holds and all the other boats 'hold' as well. So, a little less sleep than planned... but we 're up and getting ready to leave for another long run. Our goal is to get to the Puerto Escondido area quickly... like tomorrow. We shall see.

You know you're re tired when.... you not only forget it's April 1st but you also fail to trick your favourite sisters.... OK, I was only blessed with two... but they really are my favourites.. and, every year, for as long as I can remember... I spend lots of time figuring out how to trick each of them before 12 noon on April 1st and in a different way every year. I have succeeded in doing so almost every year I can remember. This year.... not so much. With all the excitement about leaving and heading north... I plumb forgot. I didn't even remember in time to trick Kathy.... this was not a good year for April Fools at our house :-(. Sorry my sisters... I shall have to get you twice... next year!

It is Sunday, April 1st... the sun has gone down and we are tidily anchored at Aqua Verde... a beautiful anchorage on the Baja. We chose this location because of it's high cliffs and mountains that will, we hope, protect us from the strongish westerly winds that have been predicted for tonight. We had a taste of them last night in San Evaristo and, with no wishes for a repeat performance, we have carefully selected a spot off the beach in front of the fishing village. We have large mountains to the south and west AND and we have lots of scope (anchor chain) out. We feel pretty comfortable that we'll be able to handle whatever is dished out. Will let you know tomorrow, how we do tonight.

Aaah, good morning. It's Monday, April 2nd. I'm happy to report we didn't feel a bit of wind overnight and had wonderful sleeps. It's so nice, the weather forecasts aren't awful, and we've decided to stay for at least one more day. There are several boats we know (Free Spirit, Dolce Maestra, Ocean Voyager) here and we'll enjoy catching up with everyone. The sun is hot, the seas are smooth, water temp 75, and low humidity. Can it get any better?

Thursday, April 5th. Hope to be sending this post sometime today, and another one as well. Feel free to read them in chronological order... or not :-)

Hope all is well with everyone. CJ



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Baby Gray Whale VIDEOS

Hi again...here are the videos I promised in my last post. Enjoy!

Note: if you've received this post via email and are having problems with the video links, try opening the page in your web browser by clicking here:
 http://svshannon.blogspot.com/2018/03/baby-gray-whale-videos_29.html 

It was fun watching the group in the other panga interacting with the baby whale...

Watch how momma tells her baby when it's time to leave...

Sharing time socializing between our two boats...

A first person perspective of what it's like when a baby whale comes to be petted...

Playing with Baby Whales

Last week, CJ and I took a long-awaited side trip over to the western side of the Baja, to visit a very special place.  Adolfo Lopez Mateos is a village located near the northern end of the 50 km long Bahia Magdalena, a 10 minute panga trip to one of the "doorways" out into the Pacific. During the months of January to March, this large lagoon acts as a nursery for the Gray Whales of the North Pacific. 

Magdalena Bay is one of three such lagoons located along the outside of the Baja and we remember passing them by as we sailed south in 2011 on our way to Mexico.  Each winter these incredible animals make the journey south from their summer feeding grounds in the Arctic and return to their place of birth to mate and raise babies of their own.

To find out more about the history of the Baja whale lagoons, the whales who use them and the people who live there, check out this great article by James Michael Dorsey: The Whale Keepers of San Ignacio, Mexico

Lopez Mateos is about a 4 hour drive from La Paz and many folks do the entire tour in a single day.  We had heard that early morning is the best time to view the whales, so we made plans to stay overnight in the village.  We hired a wonderful taxi driver / tour guide named Jorge, who we had met last year here in La Paz. Jorge and his family have run their taxi/tour business for two generations and Jorge is a genuinely nice guy with a ready smile and a pretty good handle of English.  He has a fleet of pristine recent model vans and is an excellent driver, so even CJ was comfortable riding in the passenger seat on a Mexico highway. :-)

Jorge picked us up outside Palmira Marina at 8 am and we arrived at Lopez Mateos shortly after noon.  After checking in to our Cabanas and having a lunch of fish tacos at the palapa restaurant next door, we made our way down to the Embarcadero to hire a panga for a two hour tour out in the lagoon.  Although the winds of recent days had eased, it was a bit choppy and many of the whales had left the lagoon to spend the afternoon out in deeper water.  We did, however, see a few whales actively swimming and even a baby practicing its breaching skills.

Jorge & CJ on the Embarcadero

Jorge negotiated a great deal for us and we had a panga to ourselves.

That night, we had an early dinner of seafood (lobster, prawns and a delicious fish fillet!), provided by a local woman who runs a small restaurant and rents rooms.  Her little granddaughters were gracious hostesses, greeting us with smiles and handshakes when we arrived.  The youngest (14 months), amazed us with her social skills when she walked up to our table after dinner to show us her stash of play money...  tiny little colourful Mexican Peso bills in various denominations.  Jorge joked and teased her, saying: "vamos a la tienda!".

The next morning, we were up before 6 to have breakfast and make our way back down to the Embarcadero to hire another panga.  This time we were able to join another group of early birds and save a few pesos by sharing a panga.

The water was calm and the sun was burning off the morning fog as we made our way over to the "doorway".  We came across another panga with a small group,  engine stopped and drifting along with a baby whale alongside.  The two Japanese women in this panga leaned over the side and squealed with delight as the whale came right alongside their boat, close enough for them to pat.

(photo courtesy of Jorge)

Our captains (the) pangeros were very careful to shut off their engines when the whales were near and let the whales approach us by their own choosing. Soon, the "little" whale left the other panga and headed our way.  It was amazing to see how comfortable he/she was with us and seemed excited to meet as many humans as she could.  We were surprised at how soft the whale's skin was.  I've heard someone describe it as feeling like the texture of a peeled hard-boiled egg (except for those crusty barnacle, of course).

(photo courtesy of Jorge)

Time for a little break

Even the babies have barnacle growth, giving them their distinctive gray colour.

The whales love to have their mouths & baleens scratched

Momma controls the show

I have a few short videos of the whales and their new human friends, which I'll share in my next post.  In the meantime, here are a few photos of some of the other sights we had that day....

Magdalena Bay is also home to a large variety of birds. Our guides took us near the shore for a closer look...

White Pelicans on the shore

Great Blue Heron in full plumage

Meanwhile, back at the Embarcadero...

Close to the end of the whale season here, so we had our choice of pangas.

Cleaning boat bottoms, Baja style. Muriatic acid, no gloves or face masks!

Hope you enjoyed the photos!

(photo courtesy of Jorge)

Basking in La Paz....

You could be forgiven for thinking we've dropped off the edge of the world. Hopefully you will be relieved to learn we have not. We've just been busy; busy enjoying lazy days in La Paz... in the company of old and new friends, at Marina Palmira, Dock 3.

It's funny really... how quickly we assume addresses at every port. We (Kathy and I) are members of the Dock 3 'family' at Marina Palmira, the Dock 4 family at Marina Mazatlan, the B Dock family at Marina El Cid, and the C Dock family in Marina San Carlos. Each of these 'families' consist of those cruisers who commonly frequent each location at approximately the same time. It's quite a fluid arrangement and the group dynamics change each time one boat arrives or another leaves. But it's wonderful to look forward to reconnecting with old friends and to welcome new members to the family as they arrive. We will miss (and I think we will be missed by) those family members we will be saying adios to when we ship home... and that's quite a sad reality. Until now, each time we've said goodbye it really means... see you next season.

Not so this year. We have six weeks left to enjoy sailing in the Sea of Cortez before we hand SSpirit's key to a good friend who will deliver her to her 'ride' home. We will precede her and fly out on May 19th. SSpirit will wait patiently for her new life as a B.C. coastal cruiser to begin. She is supposed to be picked up by the freighter sometime between May 25 and June 25. We're told the date will become more apparent once the freighter is through the Panama Canal.

For now we are in La Paz, waiting for some bigger winds to blow through (what else?) and then we will head up into the Loreto area for our last few weeks of gunk-holing in the Sea of Cortez.

I'll write again when there's news to tell... Hope all is well with each of you...and those spring flowers are popping up everywhere for you to enjoy.

Adios for now amigos y amigas... CJ

Posted by: Carolyn (via Kathy's Google mail profile)

Last crossing...

For the record: this is the last time we will be crossing the beautiful Sea of Cortez :-(. And, oh what a first night we've had. Ha! I just saw two sea turtles swimming in line off our Port side.

It's 0630 and I've just taken over the watch after a 2 1/2 hr. break. We have the Lee cloth set up on the couch (to keep whoever is trying to sleep from falling off if and when the boat rolls quickly). Such is the available sleep on a small boat when two people are taking turns on the helm... using a 2-3 hr. watch system. Mostly you lie there with your eyes closed, trying to ignore the constant thrum of the Diesel engine (when you're motoring), the explosions of noise on the VHF radio (particularly when the Mexican fishermen get to bantering),the creaking and groaning of the boat as her hull flexes, and the noises in your head as you run through the lists of things you did remember to check before leaving... and the lists of things you should probably check to make sure everything is working as it should. At some point, within the two hour period you actually fall asleep; and then it's time to get up, put your gear back on, and head out to take over the helm. Lots of fun :-)

Back to the crossing. I wrote you we finally had a window. SSpirit, and about 8 other boats, left Mazatlan bound for La Paz. Even though we all left within a few hours of each other, and were all heading for the same place, we haven't sighted a boat since yesterday afternoon. Everyone is out here but they're all below the horizon. As usual, we're one of the slower boats. We observe several 'house rules' when transiting. It's a safety thing. The first is, having experienced the ruthlessness of northerly winds when they kick up (and expecting them to arrive as forecast) we put one reef in the main sail. The second rule is... we put the second reef into the main just before dark. The other rules have to do with both crew being tethered in at all times after dark and no one leaves the cockpit unless the other person is watching.

OK, back to the trip. Yesterday, the first day of our trip, went very well. The winds and seas were (as expected) on the nose... but didn't get as high as had been forecast. We left expecting to see 20 knot winds by 1600 hrs; but they never arrived. Yahoo to that. That made our journey much more comfortable and fun.

A couple memories I'd like to share with you... During the day we saw lots of birds and quite a few turtles. Then, as sunset approached, we were treated to the most beautiful, brilliant, almost neon, blazing pink skies. For one gorgeous 20 minute period, one particular cloud formation was so brilliant it turned a swath of the the sea below it to deep pink with its reflection. Never seen that before. It was amazing. The glow continued for some time and we motor-sailed on, cloaked in Mother Nature's colours.

Over-night provided some excitement as well. There I was minding my own business and tending the helm when I happened to notice the depth sounder flashing. Now, this new and dependable instrument had been showing - - - like it does when it's really deep, for hours... and all of a sudden it was flashing 45.1. Yikes! I watched and pondered this situation for about 10 minutes... wondering what the heck was going on. We were in an area the charts declared to be over 1200 feet deep. I was watching it carefully because, if it got to 30, I was going to slow down and call upon the navigator (who was off watch and sleeping) for a second opinion. Best I can figure is a very smart whale was swimming along with us, at our speed, about 45 feet below us... or... we went over an unmarked sea mount (there are many in the Sea of Cortez).

The next major event that captured my attention also kind of scared me a bit. Visions of having to abandon ship in a hurry, in the dark, with our abandon ship gear spread around somewhat (a situation that was remedied as soon as I recovered from the 'event') flashed through my mind.

When I stand my watch I have the habit of, besides watching the instruments (radar, chart plotter, autopilot, engine dials) constantly. I also make it a point to stand up (the usual position for the person on watch is standing or sitting behind the wheel) and 'walk the deck' (all four feet of it when I walk from one side to the other of the that little space) every ten minutes or so. When I'm doing that, I do a complete scan of the horizon and all the space between it and our boat. I'm looking for the lights of ships I know are there and the lights of ships I don't know about. On a night like last night the stars are so brilliant the ones near the horizon actually look like they could be ships... and vice versa; a ship near the horizon could look like a star.

So, there I was last night, about to begin my walk, and looking to port, I saw a huge patch of phosphorescent light developing in the water about 100 yards off. As I watched, and before my shocked eyes, I saw the ball of light (about the size of a Greyhound Bus) was moving and moving fast, much faster than us... and it was on a collision course with us, heading toward our bow on a diagonal course. I really couldn't do anything as I watched for the few seconds this all took.

I'm assuming it wasn't 'our time' yet; the light disappeared as it went below our bow. I must also assume, as I'm pretty sure Greyhound Buses can't swim, that one very large (and fast) whale was deep enough, or dove, and missed us. He missed us and we missed him. Thank goodness. But, I have to say... phew, that was a close one.

And so my friends, as a new day develops with smooth seas, light winds, and us chugging along towards La Paz, I've started this blog so I can share our last crossing with you. I'll finish it tomorrow so you can have the whole story in order and in one shot.

For now, know we are safe and enjoying our crossing of this beautiful body of water. The Sea of Cortez has provided us with a lifetime of experiences and stories over the seven plus years we've been wintering here.

Ha! Dolphins fishing off our Port side.... must go and watch. Adios till I write again.. CJ

Friday, March 9th.

1828 hrs. I cannot describe well enough for you the vision created by a blazing sunset to one side of us and the pale pastel blues and pinks on the other. Mother Nature's tablet is surreal. I could be floating in a vase of pinks and blues. I can't even see the horizon for the shades of colours that blend the sea and the sky. This is the kind of experience that woos us sailors away from our homes and keeps us coming back. And as the day slips quietly into the night... I am trying to imprint this moment into my memory... forever.

It's later now, quite a bit later. It's dark and there are clouds of mist scattered across the barely visible horizons. We are motor sailing (yes, the mainsail has been up the whole time... it often catches and holds a bit of wind). We have made it to the other side of the wide expanse of the Sea and are heading up along the east side of Ceralvo Island.

Do you remember I told you about being scanned by a drone when we were crossing Banderas Bay in the early hours, after coming north around Cabo Corrientes? Well, I'm experienced now and it didn't take long for me to identify a mysterious object with flashing lights hovering fairly high over our port side. It moved with us for a little while and then scooted back towards land. Hmmm... Cartel or authorities... a 'coin toss' for sure. I worried about that a bit; then decided while the authorities wouldn't worry about being spotted (bright flashing strobe lights) the Cartel would probably 'run dark'. Anyway, I spotted the small little spy ships several times. They must have had a slow night to spend so much time watching us. I really can't get used to these things. Their presence and purpose feels very invasive. But, if I was to take one out with my little flare gun, I expect I wouldn't get to enjoy the rest of our season... sigh. Oh well, on we chugged.

Pre-dawn on Saturday morning found us crossing the top of Ceralvo Island and approaching Lorenzo Channel. Tuamotu, a sailboat ahead of us, and ourselves had to scoot out of the way for two, very large ferries, converging on the same Channel. We continued on our way once they had passed. An easy route south to La Paz, on a beautiful sunny morning.... and by 0900 hrs., we were tied snuggly to our new slip in Marina Palmira. 51.5 hours... not bad at all.

We are delighted to have arrived, finally, in La Paz. Friends Sue and John are still here. They leave Wednesday, aboard a beautiful, sea-going trawler called MV Shorleave, as crew for a four month journey into the South Pacific. We are so glad we arrived in time to bid them safe journeys and help them slip their lines.

We will catch up on our rest and get on with our plans; meeting old and new friends, having new canvas created for SSpirit, and preparing for some cruising in our favourite cruising grounds - north of La Paz. If you think about the location of Loreto... that's the area we'll spend most of our time.

For now... know we are safe and secure and wishing you all your own safe journeys.

Adios until next time. CJ


Posted by: Carolyn (via Kathy's Google mail profile)

News Flash... we’re on the move!

0500 hrs. Winds calm...tide lowish. Forecast: not too bad until late Saturday. It's Thursday. We have a window!

So, can't talk long... things to do. But know this; we are finally able to head to La Pas. yippee! Yahoo! Finally! Probably won't write again until we're there (not much internet at sea). But, approximately 236 nautical miles from here... I'll let you know once we're there.

Hope everyone's well. We're delighted to be on the move. Adios for now... farewell Mazatlan. We will miss the wonderful folks here... and our cruising friends who stay on the mainland side.

Until we write again. Be well.

CJ

Posted by: Carolyn (via Kathy's Google mail profile)

Livin’ on a boat in Mazatlan...

Yes, here we are; still. The winds continue... some days less, most days more. The seas go on and on and on... and still we wait.

Now, you might think crossing from Mazatlan to La Paz sounds pretty simple... but let me tell you... it's not really. The course is pretty simple, but the preparation and the doing are something quite different. And so, for now, we are just "livin' on a boat in Mazatlan" as the days roll on.

It's not all bad mind you. In fact, life here is pretty sweet. We wake at about 0700 and make coffee, like you would. Then we check out all the available, and credible, weather forecasts... and make copious notes for future reference. By the time that's done we sit by the VHF radio for the morning net (Channel 72 at 0800). This is when we check in with all the other boats, and listen to yet another weather forecast, and collect all kinds of information... from what's happening nearby to what's coming up. There's the (once a month) Art Walk and numerous musical events about town. Then on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday... the veggie man (red pick-up with mounds of fresh fruits and vegetables) and the fish man (white van filled with fresh fish and camarones ) come to the nearby parking lot and, if you're lucky... the donut guy comes by at the same time... OMG they're delicious.

And of course there is Spanish lessons by the pool at 1100 and Happy Hours from 1300-1400 (at the beach across the way), 1400-1500 (at the pool nearest to the docks), and 1500-1600 (at the quiet pool with the hot tub... our personal favourite... furthest from the docks but near the point with a good view of the ocean). Sigh... it's hard to keep up with it all.

Then there's domestic chores...like lugging the laundry to Alexandria, a delightful woman who runs a lavenderia three blocks away. She greets us with a big smile and hugs and then does the best job, ever, on our sack of laundry. There's also grocery shopping which requires an eleven peso bus ride, a wandering of the Soriano aisles, and a taxi ride back (not so bad really). The hardest part is stripping all the packaging off upon arrival home (no corregated cardboard allowed on board).

We also have a list of chores and projects that, as the time wears on, is becoming shorter and less critical... but there's always something to do if you're bored. But, hey, who has time to be bored.

With the winds and currents mis-behaving, we've kept busy helping boats come in. The newbies don't have a good understanding of the forces they're up against and there's nothing like a runaway sailboat to test your metal as it goes out of its way to miss the dock and/or confound it's skipper who's trying to slide it serenely into a slip. We're there to help when we can and, otherwise, we have no trouble keeping ourselves busy.

Strangest thing happened today though. We realized we actually had time to down tools and kick back and spend some time with our books. Seems like once you give up trying to keep to a schedule or serious plan, life gets simpler...

So, for now, we live life on this boat in Mazatlan... and we bide our time... waiting for the 'green light' to head across to La Paz.

Hope your plans are unfolding as you intended... adios for now.... from our Mazatlan residence... sigh.    CJ

Posted by: Carolyn (via Kathy's Google mail profile)

Rocking Horse Alley... out there. Glad we’re not...

Hello all, it's been some time since I've written. Not that I haven't had news to impart; of course not. But mostly, since an hour after we arrived, we've been busy with paperwork, mechanical repairs... and, even an upgrade in the form of stainless steel railings at the cockpit (which, I must admit, look splendiferous).

And then... there's our friends Mother Nature, or the wind Gods, or just plain luck... that we cruisers must negotiate with, beg somewhat and, in the end, find buckets of patience so as to wait for the merest hint of a smile in our direction. Such is our case today.

We are close to ready to proceed (you are never really ready... you just 'go' when it's time). But, as is the case when there's almost too many sources of information, we spend each morning scanning the myriad of weather info available - looking for the ones more closely associated with our intended course. Oh for the days when you just squinted up into the sky, sucked your thumb and stuck it up into the wind, closed one eye, stood on the opposite foot.... and declared it safe to leave. Aargh; life must have been much simpler then. Today, with digital, projected, model-based, etc., etc., weather forecasts.... it's almost impossible to know when it's safe to go. Some say (I may have offered the advice myself) "just keep reading 'till ya find one ya like... and go with that." Today, I'm still reading, waiting for one where the large swells are farther apart than 5 seconds. Been there, done that; not volunteering for more.

But, like I always say, there are much worse places to be stuck than lovely Marina El Cid. We will be ready... and we will leave... when it's the right time to do so. Until then, know we are safe and hoping you are all warm and cosy and staying safe. Heard there's a cold snap in southern BC. Brrr!!

So for now, adios me amigos. Go well and be safe. CJ

PS: If the weather predictions are more than half correct, we may be here for another week. Time will tell.

Posted by: Carolyn (via Kathy's Google mail profile)

Mazatlan....

Hola amigos,

After 26 hours of wind and seas on the nose, and surviving the most fishing vessels we've ever seen yet, we are safe and secure in Marina El Cid. It seemed as if every apparatus in Mexico that could float was out fishing the waters the whole way from Matanchen to just north of Isla Isabel. The good news is we only encountered two long lines and were able to slide over them... all the rest were fishing shorter nets held near to their pangas... for those, lonely, fishermen... we'd coast up to their panga, wake the fisherman who was sleeping under a tarp, and accept his advice on how to safely avoid his net. They were pretty happy with us for caring enough to do that. Further north, as the net fishermen diminished, the shrimpers took over in droves; but at least they were large, well lit, and contained their nets around their vessels.

We also enjoyed numerous sightings of whales blowing and a fantastic display of breaching and huge fin slapping. Oh, and of course... there were the stars. My God how they could spill across the heavens...so thick it made finding the usual constellations difficult.

While the trip wasn't the most comfortable we've ever had... it did put us at Mazatlan's doorstep right on time. Exactly 26 hours after we'd left Matanchen (0900), we slid quietly through the entrance to the Mazatlan estuary, home of El Cid Marina, Marina Mazatlan, Fonatur Marina and the Isla Marina. Luckily for us... the dredge hadn't started working yet (which cuts off entrance to the estuary without regard to current or standing waves at the entrance.. (and we'd missed slack tide by about 2 hours), and there were no catamarans (carriers of vast numbers of tourists intent on a day at the beach... with promises of whale sightings and easy to use sanitarios) blocking our way. We made it in after slack tide but before the ebb was too strong. Our friends were waiting for us at the dock and we slid handily into B16 at Marina El Cid.

For now, we will focus on a few repairs that are needed, and on continuing our journey to La Paz once the repairs are completed and the weather Gods open the gate. Fairly high winds are predicted for the next week... so that may work out quite well. Time will tell.

For now we are content... and enjoying the familiar haunts of Mazatlan (couldn't resist a dinner tonight that came with "all the margueritas you can drink" :-) Tomorrow we will refocus and get SSpirit ready for her next several months.

Hope all is well with each of you. Adios for now... CJ

Posted by: Carolyn (via Kathy's Google mail profile)

Matanchen Bay

Just a quick note to say we are well. Have decided to enjoy a couple days in Matanchen Bay while some gusty winds between here and Mazatlan settle down a bit. All is well here. Enjoying the peace and quiet and beautiful sunsets. Hope all is well with each of you. CJ

Posted by: Carolyn (via Kathy's Google mail profile)

Finally....

Yup, the day has finally arrived... we are heading on our way. There is so much left to do and see... we are delighted! Visits with friends, new and old in Puerto Vallarta, have been great and we will miss them. But it's time for us to get moving and set some new routes into our chart plotter.

We'll be in touch as and when we can. Know we are safe (always cautious) and living every day. We hope you are too. TTFN (tatafornow). CJ

PS didn't get a chance to send this before we left... but leave we did :-). Officials all arrived; some on time and one not. But, by 1130 hrs. We were on our way. Have pulled in to Punta de Mita to collect ourselves before carrying on. More news later. For now, know we are well and enjoying ourselves. Saw no less than ten whales while crossing Banderas Bay, some quite close to the boat, and several moms and calves.

Posted by: Carolyn (via Kathy's Google mail profile)

Update from Paradise...

 Hola amigos. Yes, we're still here. And, yes, we should have left a few days ago. Unfortunately the weather Gods thought otherwise and we have the pleasure of biding our time for, hopefully, just a few more days until we can move on in relative comfort.

 Kathy has been home to visit mom and she's now back on board safe and sound. I have been doing what you do when you live on a boat... maintenance and repairs interspersed with bouts of binge reading and morning walks.

 I was invited by friends for a day trip adventure to Bucerius to witness the last day of Our Lady of Guadalupe celebrations. This was quite amazing and involved terrific dances performed by the Huichol Indians. Their historical story (over 15,000 years of it) is complex and well covered on Wikipedia if you want to look it up. But I was first attracted by the scented smoke they used and then totally absorbed by their dance routines, energy and stamina. Men, women, and children all in traditional regalia and all moving to the rhythm of the drummer. Foot movements, body twirling and the sounds of their rattles and beads all made for a mezmerizing and enchanting experience. I was particularly attracted by the main movement of the group as they circled the area (which by the way was on the front patio of the beautifully decorated Cathedral). They all wore large ankle coverings made from the dried husks of large nuts which, as their feet hit the ground or moved quickly... sounded so much like something I'd seen and heard before. Kathy's niece has two children. Her son Colton is a grass dancer and her daughter Hannah dances the Jingle Dress Dance with her group in Pukatawagan, Manitoba (part of the Mathias Colomb (Cree) First Nation). I was fascinated and excited to see the similarities between the Jingle Dress Dance and the dance of the Huichol's. Both had the same or similar foot movements and both were accompanied by the rhythm and sounds of the nuts in one case and the rows of metal cones attached to the dresses in the other. I guess the only difference was the history of the two groups; one dating back thousands of years in Mexico and the other being much younger and in northern Canada. It seems this is another example of how our customs have evolved and how much we are all part of each other. This truly is a small world.

 Once the dancing was finished we all moved to the beach where we waited and waited. Finally the fleet came in. In this portion of the celebration the fishing fleet is to race to shore and then be blessed by the Priest. This year there was, apparently, a lot less racing and a lot more decoration. The lead panga carried a very large cross and many people. The other pangas were equally decorated and loaded with folks. They arrived as a peaceful group and then took turns taking on the surf and running up onto the sandy beach and unloading their passengers.

 And then came the horses; beautiful steeds, their coats gleaming and their riders proudly dressed in historical regalia. There seemed to be dozens and dozens of them and they filled the streets from the beach to the Cathedral. At that point Bucerius was just a sea of people, horses, smoke, dancing, celebration and rejoicing as everyone celebrated the Virgin Mary. We took our leave and headed out to find a cold cerveza.

 Where are the pictures?? I hear you cry. I took hundreds on my friends iPad and, with luck, they will arrive and I will share some with you. Sorry for the delay but I wanted to write to you about this amazing celebration before I forgot the sounds, smells and feelings. I will get the photos out as soon as I can but, if you're interested just google "Huichol Indians dancing in San Blas" (which is a small town a little up the coast).

 That's all I have for today. We've had some sheet lightening and thunder these last couple of nights. They say that's normal for January. Hmmm. I hope Thor knows there's only two days left in January. Fingers are crossed hoping for that weather window to open up soon. (That tapping sound you hear is my foot... I'm ready to move on :-)

 Adios me amigos y amigas... I hope all is well with each of you.... CJ

Posted by: Carolyn (via Kathy's Google mail profile)

Mexican log

Sailing in B.C. can be treacherous. The fall out (or float out) from our rivers, fed by the lumber industry and Mother Nature, creates obstacles which can stop us dead in the water AND leave big holes in our hulls or bends in our prop shafts. Floating logs and deadheads (those that float, standing on end, with just their heads poking up) are a constant hazard to all sailors in the Salish Sea and other coastal areas.

We have hazards to sailors in Mexico too; but heavy duty floating logs aren't on the list.  Unless, of course, you reckon this token offering might count.  Me thinks we're safe, unless the pointy end should strike first.... they're deadly.  🇲🇽 

Sent from my Samsung device

Wake up call....

Woke up this morning... feeling a little lonely... but only for as long as it took me to get dressed and head out for a morning walk. So many friendly folks; "buenos dias, how are you?" "Bien gracias". Over and over again as I walked. Pretty nice.

I left in a bit of a rush this morning... didn't want to be late for the Tuesday morning Farmer's Market I'd heard about. Turns out I was a couple hours early, but they took my business anyway... and I left with the things I'd hoped for.

When I got back I checked my email...like you would. And there was a message from my sister telling me about the big Tsunami that (didn't) hit Vancouver Island! Shamed... I was ashamed I hadn't known. And, I hadn't known because I hadn't checked our local (that'd be BC) news. As the day has unfolded, I've thought of that situation often; and I've realized something.

Back in 2007, when Kathy and I travelled to Europe, BC news wasn't really available. We had very little internet and BC, well that news just didn't make it to the world stage. In fact, Canada barely earned a mention. Because of that, we started watching and listening to world news and OMG the things we learned. We've been followers ever since; even though the tragedies people are living through and the horrible living conditions so many have come to call 'normal'... and the politics (I can't even pretend to understand, but I can follow along) are so upsetting. It is what our world has become. And, as we live our day to day lives; many of us in, what to others, is the lap of luxury, I recognize we are the lucky ones.

I'm sorry I wasn't up to date on the news at home; and am I ever glad Vancouver Island wasn't swept away in an avalanche of water. But at the same time I cannot forget the folks in other countries who are suffering in ways we can't even imagine.

I think, seeing how other people in other countries manage their day to day lives has been an eye opener. I am so glad we've had these past 6 1/2 years to learn from the folks in Mexico. Their appreciation of what they have in life is wonderful. We could learn so much from just that one fact.

I'll leave you with that... and wish each one of you peace, happiness, and time with your loved ones... where-ever you call home. CJ

Posted by: Carolyn (via Kathy's Google mail profile)

The Lady of Melaque

One morning last week while at anchor off the village of Melaque, CJ and I were sitting in the cockpit sipping coffee, enjoying the quiet morning, when we noticed an interesting example of natural art.  

Across the bay from the village, in the rocky cliffs that protect the northern corner of the anchorage, we saw the image of a woman, who appears to be leaning back and gazing up at the sky.  Perhaps those are her hands, folded in prayer.  The sight was so striking, we were sure that this must be a well-known phenomenon and maybe even a famous natural monument, recorded in the folk lore of Melaque. I've done some searching online, but cannot find any mention of her.  It could be that she is only visible in very particular conditions, cause by.... the angle of the sun, the amount of green growth on the rocks.... 

SSpirit rests.... Paradise Village

Success!  The wonderful folks at Paradise Village Marina (Dick, Gina, and Anna) found room for us and even gave us, what we think, is a wonderful slip.  We're on the end of the first set of slips inside the entrance to the estuary.  We have the ocean breeze, lots of boats coming and going, fishermen tossing their nets to catch bait for the serious fishers on bigger boats, and a beautiful view.  We're also close to the pools, beach bars, and the Vallarta Yacht Club. Life is good. We'll be here for a few days before moving on.

Hope all is well with each of you.  Adios for now.  CJ

Posted by: Carolyn (via Kathy's Google mail profile)

Cabo Corrientes...

Not bad for 60 hey!!

Good morning, good morning.  I’m writing you from sunny La Cruz/Puerto Vallarta, Banderas Bay.  We’re currently anchored waiting to hear if Paradise Village might have room for us today or tomorrow.  We are tired and we are elated... about to celebrate Kathy’s 60th and the completion of a round trip through Corrientes, with a wee sip of Champagne.

Thanks to all the great wisdom, advice and forecasts we collected and a bit of good luck, we picked exactly the right window.  We had choices...either stop at Chamela and Ipala, using up two nights and/but being able to travel during daylight hours... or make a long run from Chamala and go up and around Corrientes, in one shot. We know how weather windows can deteriorate quickly so we decided to seize the moment and make a run for it. We had such a good run, I feel compelled to tell you about it... hope you don’t mind.

Having worked out a course, staying one mile off the shore during daylight (because we’d be able to see the fishing boats and their nets), and then moving out to three miles after dark (because then we’d hopefully be outside the areas where they fish),    and then moving back in to 1-2 miles off the Cape (to avoid heavier seas and winds and to take advantage of a northbound current)... we then worked out the time. The total journey, from Chamela to PV, would take approx. 21 hours if we maintained an average speed of 5 knots.  And, upon advice from everyone, we wanted to be rounding the Cape between 2300 and 0100 hrs.  Lots of math, I know, but well worth the time.  We hoisted our anchor and slipped from Chamela at 1100 hrs., Saturday morning, and after quite an amazing journey, we arrived in Banderas Bay and dropped our anchor just outside La Cruz at 0800hrs.  Not bad hey.  Now let me tell you about the journey we shared with the day of Kathy’s 60th birthday.

Our 21 hours were spent with light winds, on the nose, and 2-4’ swells from the west.  The sky was a beautiful blue and the sea gave up wonderful memories to treasure. They included.... so many sea turtles swimming along, we stopped counting after twelve.  They were cute, before scurrying off with a mighty flap of their flippers, they’d poke their heads up and take a look at us. Then there were the whales.... yup, we saw several... but the best was the one that dove and breached, and then dove and breached again.... and then he did it again.  There were dolphins, not as many as we usually see, but they were there, and most enjoyable after dark when their runs at the hull in phosphorescent water, made us think of the poor sailors in WWII watching incoming torpedoes.  The most spectacular, was a coordinated run of five, all in line, away from the boat and leaving phosphorescent trails.  Must have been dinner that swam by, and off they went.  Oh, I forgot to mention the sleeping whale.  There we were, motoring along in a phosphorescent sea (which is very cool) when I heard a whoosh off the port side.  When I looked over I saw a much larger than normal field of phosphorescence... and then, just a little ways away, what looked like a submarine laying underwater and ‘catching his breath’. I do belief we startled a sleeping whale.  Thank goodness we didn’t hit him (or her).  But nothing like a sleeping submarine to catch your attention.

And, finally, there was the night sky... the best part of night passages.  The stars were amazing.  There were so many (the moon didn’t come up until morning) we had trouble picking out our favourites (Cassiopia, the Big Dipper, Orion’s Belt.....) all stars we used to navigate on our run down the coast of North America in 2011.

OK, that’s enough information.  Know we are well, tired but safe, and in PV :-). Will write again once we know our next schedule.

Adios for now. CJ

Posted by: Carolyn (via Kathy's Google mail profile)

Chamela in 6

Hi all, well... we estimated 6-7 hours to get to Chamela and made it in 6. And, as there's a tidbit of internet here, I'm taking advantage of it to let you know we are well. We had light winds on the nose (so no sailing) and largish rolling swells also on the nose. It was an up and down kind of a journey but we made good speed over the ground and surprised even ourselves... arriving at 1315, exactly 6 hours after we left Tenacatita. We also got to see five sea turtles and several dolphins along the way and the day was sunny and warm.

We arrived in Chamela, got the hook down and were about to nod off when we received an invitation to join the anchored group for appies on a Catamaran called Muskoka (Scott and Laurie) whom we d met some time ago. So, no rest for the wicked.

We will probably head for the Cape tomorrow and round it in the wee hours of the morning when the winds are lowest. Or not. Will let you know once we ve decided, done it, and arrived in PV. :-)

Until then... stay safe and have a great day.

TTFN. CJ

Posted by: Carolyn (via Kathy's Google mail profile)